Fashion in ancient Egypt was much more than just clothing; it was meaningful in expressing the hierarchical structure of the society, its religious, and practical needs. Indeed, the Egyptians had mastered blending functionality with sophisticated design—a legacy that still provides influence today. The most basic elements characterizing ancient Egyptian fashion would include materials, clothing, and the social and cultural context within which their styles emerged.
Materials and Techniques
In ancient Egypt, the choice of materials and production techniques significantly influenced the development of fashion. The hot and dry climate of this region determined to a great extent the type of fabrics worn as clothing.
- Linen: The primary textile of the Egyptians was linen, a light and airy fabric produced from flax. The Egyptians were well versed in the art of weaving linen, and it was just right for the scorching heat. Linen was often graded according to its quality, the best being almost transparent and known as “royal linen,” which was used only by the highest classes.
- Dyeing and Colors: The most common was natural off-white linen; some colors were used for decoration. Red, blue, and green dyes were derived from natural sources—plants and minerals—but due to the difficulty and expense involved, dyeing was less common. White was a symbol of purity and cleanliness and so was often worn by priests and other religious figures.
Clothing for Different Groups
Ancient Egyptians wore clothing befitting not only their everyday needs but also their status and role in society. Their clothing was made to be practical in the extreme climate of Egypt but was also a form of self-expression.
- Men’s Clothing:
- Shendyt: This was the traditional male garment, a kilt-like wraparound skirt fastened around the waist, usually by a belt. The length, style, and ornamentation of the shendyt were indicative of the wearer’s social status. Working-class people used to wear simple variants of the shendyt; elites wore much more sophisticated models, often adorning themselves with ornaments and flashy belts.
- Kalasiris: A loose robe or simple tunic sometimes worn by men for ceremonial or religious contexts. In many instances the kalasiris was an enhanced garment for both comfort and formal outfit.
- Women’s Clothing:
- Kalasiris: Like men‘s clothing, this was a tube-shaped dress that reached from the chest to the ankles. It was usually worn by women; the well-off wore a softer, pleated or decorated linen version. The simplicity of the dress reflected the practicality of Egyptian fashion.
- Beaded Dresses: Affluent women would wear dresses made of intricately strung beads over a linen sheath. They were worn on festive occasions to show their status and wealth.
- Children’s Clothing: Children in ancient Egypt usually did not wear clothes until they reached adolescence. Since the climate was warm, it was more practical for young children to go without clothes. They often wore protective amulets, such as the Udjat eye (the Eye of Horus), to ward off harm.
Headwear and Hairstyles
The headwear and hairstyles of ancient Egyptians were related not only to comfort and protection from the sun but also in their role in giving a symbolic show of power, affluence, and social rank.
- Nemes Headdress: One of the most iconic symbols of Egyptian royalty, the nemes is a striped cloth worn by pharaohs. It was a symbol for power and divine authority, mostly worn in combination with the royal beard and uraeus, the serpent’s crown, indicating the ruler’s relationship with the gods.
- Khat Headdress: This more common head covering was worn by commoners, priests, and other people for more practical reasons. Made of linen, it protected the wearer from the strong sun and heat.
- Wigs: Both Egyptian men and women wore wigs, which were made from human hair or plant fibers, or a combination of both. These were often perfumed with oils and perfumes for fragrance, to make them look extra nice, and as a sign of wealth and status. The more elaborate the wig, the higher the person’s standing in society.
- Klaft: A klaft was a triangular cloth headpiece bound behind the head, usually worn by laborers and commoners for protection from the sun; it was a very practical thing to wear in everyday life.
Crowns and Diadems
Along with simple head coverings, there were also other crowns and diadems worn by the ancient Egyptians as symbols of kingship, divinity, and protection. These were very meaningful things in Egyptian culture and quite frequently associated with deities and pharaohs.
- Atef Crown: The atef crown is a white crown of Upper Egypt, usually worn by the gods, most often Osiris. It consists of a tall, conical white crown surrounded by two ostrich feathers, representing divine rule and protection by the gods. The atef crown was also worn by pharaohs on certain ceremonial occasions to further emphasize their divine authority.
- Red Crown (Deshret): The red crown of Lower Egypt, known as deshret, was a symbol of the pharaoh’s rule over the northern region of Egypt. It was a simple, flat, and circular crown, often depicted in combination with the white crown in royal iconography. The red crown symbolized the pharaoh’s power over the land of Lower Egypt and was also associated with the fire and life force.
- Combined Crown (Pschent): The combined crown was known as pschent and was a combination of the white crown of Upper Egypt with the red crown of Lower Egypt. This crown represented unity between the two regions and the pharaoh‘s place as the ruler over all Egypt. Normally, the pharaoh would wear it at ceremonies to show his dominion over both Upper and Lower Egypt.
- Blue Crown (Khepresh): The blue crown, or khepresh, was generally the crown of war and military strength. It was made of blue-colored cloth or leather and adorned with gold or any other precious material. In combative situations and ceremonial representations, the pharaoh often wore the khepresh to show his strength and invincibility. It is associated with the god Amun and used in rituals relating to power and divine protection.
Jewelry and Accessories
Jewelry in ancient Egypt was more than just a decoration; it was an item of great cultural and spiritual significance. It served as a symbol of power, protection, and connection with the divine.
- Broad Collars: These ornate collars were made with gold, semi-precious stones, and something called faience, which is a glazed earthenware. Both men and women wore these, and most of them are well ornamented with motifs like the scarab beetle, the lotus flower, or the vulture, each carrying its own symbolism.
- Bracelets and Anklets: These were worn by both sexes and were often decorated with such symbolic motifs as scarabs, representing rebirth, and the lotus, symbolizing life and renewal.
- Diadems: Worn by royalty, diadems were headbands or crowns made from gold and ornamented with precious stones; often carrying motifs of gods and goddesses, these symbols of royalty pointed out the divine status of the wearer.
Footwear
Footwear in ancient Egypt varied depending on social class and occasion.
- Sandals: Sandals made from papyrus or leather were common in everyday life. The sandals were simple in design, though the wealthy might wear more elaborate footwear, sometimes with gold or precious stones. Sandals were quite practical in Egypt’s hot and sandy environment.
- Barefoot: Many Egyptians, especially the common folk and those of lower classes, generally went barefoot while they worked and got around. The peasants and laborers generally did not wear any shoes, while the upper classes wore sandals.
Cultural Significance of Fashion
Fashion in ancient Egypt was closely linked to religious practices and, at the same time, daily life. The symbolism of clothing and accessories was more than merely decorative; it was an offering to the gods, and really important in the grave cult.
- Color Symbolism: Colors held significant meanings. For example, white was associated with purity and sacredness, often worn by priests and deities. Gold, representing the gods’ divine nature, was used extensively in jewelry and clothing. Red, associated with chaos and disorder, was used sparingly and typically only for certain rituals or symbolic purposes.
- Religious and Burial Practices: Clothing and jewelry also played a very important role in Egyptian burial practices. The dead were normally buried with their best clothes and accessories as an offering to the gods for the afterlife. Pharaohs and high-ranking persons were buried with very elaborate grave goods, evidence that Egyptians really believed in life after death and that it was important to keep in touch with the divine.
Legacy and Inspiration
Ancient Egyptian fashion continues to influence from the high-fashion arena to modern design today. So many elements, such as the shendyt, kalasiris, and nemes headdress, have become iconic in terms of runway collections and pop culture.
- Minimalism and Geometric Patterns: The simplicity of the Egyptian costume, with clean cuts like the kalasiris and shendyt, helped inspire contemporary designers who believe in clean lines and minimal aesthetics.
- Symbolic Motifs: The use of symbolism in Egyptian jewelry and accessories, from the scarab to the ankh, continues to inspire jewelry design today.
Fashion in Ancient Egypt managed to mix functionality and artistry with deeper cultural meaning. The clothes and accessories worn by ancient Egyptians were more than just something to wear; they represented their hierarchies in society, their spiritual practices, and their innovation. The eternal influence of Ancient Egyptian fashion continues to inspire and amaze the contemporary world.
- What did pharaohs wear in ancient Egypt?Pharaohs wore elaborate garments and accessories to signify their divine rule. The iconic nemes headdress, often accompanied by a uraeus (serpent crown), symbolized their power. Pharaohs also wore the atef crown or the blue crown (khepresh) during ceremonial or military occasions. Their clothing was typically made from the finest linen, adorned with gold, beads, and other precious materials.
- What is the significance of jewelry in ancient Egyptian fashion?Jewelry in ancient Egypt was not only decorative but also served symbolic and spiritual purposes. Items such as broad collars, bracelets, anklets, and diadems were worn to indicate social status, provide protection, and honor the gods. The motifs on the jewelry, such as scarabs and lotuses, carried deep meanings related to rebirth, life, and protection.
- What was the role of wigs in ancient Egyptian fashion?Wigs were an important part of Egyptian fashion and were worn by both men and women. They were made from human hair or plant fibers and were often scented with oils and perfumes. Wigs symbolized wealth and status, and the more elaborate the wig, the higher the person’s rank in society. Wigs also served as protection from the sun and helped maintain cleanliness.
- What is the significance of the different crowns in ancient Egypt?Crowns in ancient Egypt held deep symbolic meanings: • Atef crown: Worn by pharaohs and gods, symbolizing divine rule and power over Upper Egypt. • Red crown (Deshret): Represented the pharaoh’s rule over Lower Egypt. • Combined crown (Pschent): A combination of the red and white crowns, signifying the unification of Upper and Lower Egypt. • Blue crown (Khepresh): Associated with warfare and military prowess, representing strength and invincibility.